In the desert southwest, spring planting can be surprisingly stressful on plants. Here are the steps you can take to minimize their stress and get your plants off to the best possible start.

I understand the appeal of planting in the spring. Nurseries and garden centers are well-stocked, and this might be the only time you’ll find a particular plant.
After the winter hiatus, you’re itching to get back to gardening. You want to beautify your garden and enjoy it now.
But in the desert southwest, spring planting can be surprisingly stressful on plants. Here’s what makes spring planting a challenge.
The Problem with Spring Planting
Spring is hot, dry, and windy. And unlike other parts of the country, there are no “April showers.” It’s not unusual to go three months without rain in the spring.
The spring planting season in the desert is short. The generally accepted last frost date in Tucson is March 15. It’s no longer unusual for the first 100 degree day to occur in April. Alarmingly, in 2026, the temperature hit 100° in March, before the first day of spring. 😰
If you plant in spring, there isn’t much time for plants to acclimate before June — the hottest, driest, most challenging month of the year.
So while you can plant almost any plant in spring, it’s not the easiest time for most plants to get established.
Tips for Successful Spring Planting
In spite of the challenges, I still do some planting in spring (although much less than I used to), and I expect you do, too. Over the years, I’ve learned some steps that minimize stress on your plants and help them get off to the best possible start.
Why New Plants Need Extra TLC
Let’s start by taking a look at the recent journey your plant has made from the greenhouse to the garden center.
Most likely, your plant was grown in a greenhouse protected from sun, wind, and temperature extremes. Many plants sold in hot desert climates are grown in greenhouses in mild-weathered California. It’s not unusual for plants to spend their early days covered by 30 – 50% shade cloth.
Then, it’s moved to a nursery or garden center (its first stressful event) where it’s still in a somewhat protected environment. Plants are generously watered and protected by a roof or shade cloth. Crowded conditions increase humidity and block wind.
The day you buy a plant is the end of its previously cushy life and the beginning of its life as a tough desert survivor.
Here’s how to make its transition as smooth as possible.
1. Plant During the Right Month
Spring in the desert runs from early spring (February) to late spring (June), and not all plants should be planted during the same part of spring. Most plants can be planted any time in March, but there are exceptions.
February is the time to plant bare root fruit trees and roses. Hold off on planting cold-sensitive plants until the danger of frost has passed, typically mid-March. April is the prime time to plant cactus, agaves, and other succulents since the warm soil temperatures encourage their root development. May is the best month to plant palm trees and heat-loving annuals.
You can learn more about what to plant when in our article What to Plant in Spring (Month by Month).
2. Make the Trip Home Stress-free
Once you buy a plant, the trip home can be stressful. You may put it in a hot car and then chill it with your AC. Some plants experience a shock from these temperature extremes that they never recover from… before you even get it home.
I try to shop early in the day before it gets hot. I park in the shade and leave my windows down while shopping. Then I leave my AC off on the trip home.
3. Give Your Plant Time to Acclimate
Once you get your plant home, it experiences a major change in its environment and the care it receives. So give a plant a week or so to acclimate before planting.
During this period, keep it out of wind and direct sun and give it ample water. Plants at nurseries and garden centers are used to heavy-handed watering, and small nursery pots dry out quickly, so check it daily.
If you forget to water just once, your new plant could be toast. I’ve had this happen and it makes me feel like a terrible gardener. 😢
4. Wait for a Good Day to Plant
If possible, plant on a mild, cloudy, still day. (You can stop laughing now.)
As you can imagine, there aren’t many spring days that meet these criteria — hence the argument for fall planting! But at least try to avoid a hot, sunny, windy day.
5. Dig a Proper Hole
Dig a hole that’s the same depth as your plant’s root ball and three times as wide.
While it may be tempting to skimp on the size of the hole, don’t. Putting your plant in a half-baked hole will doom it from the start.
Digging in desert soil can be tough. If you have rock-hard soil, digging a hole is a process, and you may want to start a day or two ahead of the day you hope to plant. (Soaking my clay soil and chipping away at a hole a bit at a time works for me.)
Get “must know” details on digging holes,
backfilling, and amending soil here:
How to Dig a Hole in the Desert
6. Backfill and Water
Gently remove the plant from its pot, disturbing its roots as little as possible. Native plants particularly do not like to have their roots disturbed. Place the plant in the hole and for most plants, simply refill it with the loosened native soil that you just dug up.
(Some plants benefit from amendments to enrich the soil or improve drainage, but amending should be done on a plant-by-plant basis, not as a matter of course.)
Instead of amending the hole, it’s usually a better idea to top dress with compost, which will gradually break down, adding nutrients and organic matter to your soil.
If you add mulch of any kind (organic or gravel), don’t let it touch your new plant. Leave about 3 inches of space between the mulch and your plant.
Then water thoroughly. The exceptions are succulents (i.e., cactus, agaves, aloes, yuccas, euphors, etc.). Wait a week or two after planting to water.
Speaking of cactus, better nurseries will mark the direction the cactus was grown, and you should plant it in the same orientation to minimize sun scald. Yes, even cactus can get burned from too much sun.
How Often to Water New Plants
It’s critical that new plants get enough water. Here are watering guidelines for new native and desert-adapted plants.
| Weeks 1 & 2 | Every 3 – 4 days |
| Weeks 3 & 4 | Every 6 – 7 days |
| Weeks 5 & 6 | Every 7 – 10 days |
| Weeks 7 & 8 | Every 10 – 14 days |
7. Give Your Plant Temporary Shade
Your plant has already been through a big change. Suddenly exposing it to full sun is a surefire way to fry it.
You can cover a small plant with shade cloth, screening, or any semi-sheer lightweight fabric. Or you can strategically place a patio chair or small table to shade your plant during the hottest part of the day.
You can shade a large plant or group of plants with a patio umbrella.

If these ideas won’t fly with your HOA, you may have to get creative. I’ve provided “stealth shade” in my front yard with strategic placement of yard art, tall planters, patio furniture, and even my parked car.
I’ve covered small plants and ground covers with realistic-looking “faux” plants. No one has ever noticed. 😉
Gradually reduce the number of hours per day your plant is exposed to the sun. If at any time your plant shows signs of sun scald, dial back the amount of sun it receives. Sometimes it takes a few weeks or even an entire season for a plant to fully adjust to harsh desert sun.
Recap: Spring Planting Steps
While some plants prefer to be planted in the spring (i.e., citrus, palms, and succulents), most plants are happier when planted in the fall.
However, most desert plants can be successfully planted in the spring, provided you give them the TLC they need:
- Plant during the appropriate month for that plant.
- Don’t stress your plant on the trip home – no hot cars, no AC.
- Let the plant acclimate for a week or so before planting. During this time, place it in shade and water frequently.
- Wait for a good day to plant — moderate temperature, no wind, and some cloud cover.
- Dig an appropriate hole. Backfill with loosened native soil.
- Water according to the recommended new plant guidelines.
- Provide temporary shade.
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Author Bio
Deane Alban is the creator of Southwest Gardener. She is a science writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany from the University of South Florida. Gardening is her lifelong passion. She’s been gardening in Tucson for over 15 years.
